PURSUING PASSION // DOG HOUSE DESIGNS
“Riding a wave… What’s amazing about it is that when you paddle out, you can feel the power in the ocean. The water moves all around you. When a wave passes, you feel so much energy; it’s electrifying.
Then you paddle into a wave. The moment you catch it, you feel the power pushing you forward. You stand up and drop down the face of the wave and turn the bottom of the board and you look back at the wave and it’s just a wall of moving water, and you harness the energy of the ocean as you travel back up the face, make a turn and drop down again.
Ocean mist sprays around you. The water is clear and catches the light of the sun. You see the colors of the reef pass below (by you). All that power you can feel in the wave gives you an adrenaline rush as you travel down the line.
And if it’s the right wave, it begins to barrel, throwing the water over your head. You become encapsulated in the wave and lost in the moment. You come out of the tube and launch off the lip, diving over the wave into the water.
You are ready to paddle out for the next one.
No wave is exactly the same. It’s beautiful. Each one is different and each one will carry you differently. It’s a connection between ocean and human as you and the water express yourselves together in one ride.
That’s what’s so great about surfing” a good friend explains as we talk about his next project.
As you run your hands and eyes along the surface of a board, you notice subtle differences.
Just as my friend describes no wave as ever the same, no board is exactly the same: the curves of its body and tail, the angle of the nose, the feel of the rails, the length, the colors and patterns, the textures of varnish and wax.
You watch as Zach rhythmically sands and then caresses the edges of the board that he shapes by hand. He glances up, wide-eyed and alert as he exclaims that shaping the rails is his favorite part. “That’s when it looks like a fuckin’ surfboard. All smooth and sexy.” I see how surfing shapes his and his housemates’ lives.
As a board maker and surfer, he lives for the wave and he lives for his art.